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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.